Tuesday 1 January 2019

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Which Dress Watch Should I Buy?

IWC Portofino Chronographs (one with black croc strap & silver/gold detailing; one with brown croc strap and all silver detailing)

Happy New Year everyone!!! I graduated from university and started working full-time about a year ago, and am now interested in buying my first high-quality, “expensive” tier watch. I am looking for a stylish watch with a leather strap that can be worn with business casual and formal clothes.

Thus far, I own a Victorinox Swiss Army Night Vision with a stainless steel band (originally $700) and a Burberry The City watch with a brown and Burberry patterned leather strap (originally under $500 I believe). Please see the picture of my old watches below:

Old Watches: Victorinox Swiss Army Night Vision & Burberry The City

I am now interested in purchasing a new watch for around $5,000 USD. After searching both online and in-store, I’ve narrowed down the search to two brands and models that are somewhat within my price range: the IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Chronograph and the Breitling Navitimer 1 Chronograph. I have attached pictures of the specific watches I tried on below. The two watches both appeal to me, but for different reasons:

The IWC Portofino Chronograph has a more elegant, refined look with the simple yet beautiful white face and the striking brown crocodile strap (one of my favorite aspects). The white face/brown strap combo is a color combination I’ve been interested in purchasing for quite some time. I wear suits often for work and the Portofino seems like a great dress watch, as well as a watch I can wear with nicer outfits for a classy, elegant touch. I am skeptical about the dark brown leather strap not matching easily with other color shoes and belts, however (would welcome advice on this point - supposedly the black notches on the croc strap help with that). I am also skeptical that the Portugieser seems to be IWC's leading model, while the Portofino is not as highly regarded. IWC also doesn’t have the name recognition of other brands like Rolex, Patek, Breitling, A. Lange & Sohne, etc. so I’m not sure if it’s the right brand to go with. My local jeweler is pricing the Portofino shown in the pictures below at around $4,500 - $4,800 (15% to 20% discount).

Pros:

  • simple, elegant, beautiful design
  • gorgeous brown crocodile strap
  • clean look that matches most outfits without dominating
  • great dress watch to pair with suits

Cons:

  • IWC doesn’t have the name recognition of other brands
  • simple design is easily replicated by other brands?
  • Portofino isn’t as highly reputed as IWC’s main seller, the Portugieser (please advise me if you think I should consider the Portugieser instead of the Portofino. The Portofino seems to be sleeker and is cheaper but the Portugieser is the common consensus winner. I think they're both beautiful)

Pictures:

IWC Portofino Chronograph with brown crocodile strap

IWC Portofino Chronograph on wrist (face covered by plastic wrap)

IWC Portofino Chronograph on wrist (face covered by plastic wrap)

The Breitling Navitimer 1 has an iconic, striking face that catches your eye the moment you see it. In contrast, the calf skin strap is rather subdued, and I don’t loooove the white stitching on it. I’ve considered switching the calf skin strap with a crocodile strap, but since the dial is already so busy, I’m unsure if a crocodile strap with the eye-catching Breitling face would be overkill. The black/black face and strap combination looks awesome, but is definitely more of a sporty look than the IWC’s clean elegance. I’m sure it would look great with a suit, and it is indubitably a unique and beautiful piece of jewelry, but I am wary of it “dominating” outfits with its eye-catching looks or clashing with other patterns I am wearing. Finally, does it look too much like a “pirate” watch with all the intricate markings (flight computer)? My apologies if this seems like a stupid or frivolous question; I don’t have much experience with watches. Overall, the Breitling looks incredibly cool in person, but seems more like a “guys” watch to wear with more casual outfits. For perspective, my sister and my mom prefer the IWC, while my dad prefers the Breitling. My local jeweler quoted the Breitling in the pictures below somewhere between $5,400 and $5,800 (he quoted a 15% discount).

Pros:

  • Iconic, eye-catching design
  • Brand reputation that can be easily recognized from design
  • Unique look that pairs easily with most outfits
  • Design is distinct from other watch brands that offer models

Cons:

  • Dominates outfits with eye-catching design
  • Has a unique look, but might not offer the simplicity and elegance that the IWC does
  • Seems more like a sport watch than a dress watch, although the leather/croc strap helps with that

Pictures:

Breitling Navitimer 1 Chronograph (Special Edition) with black calf leather strap

Breitling Navitimer 1 Chronograph (Special Edition) with black calf leather strap

Breitling Navitimer 1 Chronograph (Special Edition) on person

Breitling Navitimer 1 Chronograph (Special Edition)

Link to similar Breitlings in price range: https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/navitimer-1/?search%5Bprices%5D%5B%5D=0-6999&search%5Bref%5D=

Bottom Line:

I need a watch I can wear with nice clothes and suits, as my current watches cover casual outfits quite well. I therefore want to invest my money in a quality timepiece that matches well with most if not all fancy outfits for a long time to come. The elegance and beauty of the IWC beckons to me, while the iconic design of the Breitling pulls me in the other direction. If I had the money I’d buy them both, but sadly I don’t. I honestly rate them both a solid 9/10 (with a 10/10 being a perfect dream watch worth as much as a supercar).

Please help me make this crucial decision; I appreciate any advice, thoughts, and comments you may have. To be completely honest, I care more about the looks of the watch than the making (or timekeeping ability) of it, although both aspects are important to me. Please don't judge me for that, as I am a watch novice :-D

Which is better, the IWC or the Breitling? Let me know if you think the IWC Portugieser is worth the extra money over the IWC Portofino, and why!

If you’d like to recommend other comparable watch brands and models, please feel free to do so. I don't love the design and prevalence of Rolexes and they seem rather cliché, so keep that in mind. I’d love to hear any advice you may have for a fledgling watch collector looking to upgrade his collection in a big way. Thanks for bearing with my excessively long post and lack of knowledge on the subject!!!



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